Oxalá, or Obatalá, the old granddaddy orixá, made his appearance at several Candomblé ceremonies that I was blessed to attend. Ever dressed in pure white, deeply bent over from his venerable old age and hanging on for dear life to his multi-tiered staff, he totters along as though he cannot see; yet he embodies the very soul of clarity of True Vision: that of purpose, destiny and behavior....

Naná - Goddess of bogs and forests, and of women harmed by sexual violence.... The forms are suggested by the lines I found in the maps, underscoring - for me at least - how these Yoruban deities have made their homes here in Bahia. Creatures associated with Naná include the blackbird and black butterflies with blue accents. As it happens, the location on the map where I intuited the butterfly is marked - still legible - "Domicilium Negrarium": the places where the Dutch housed their African slaves....

A portrait of an Umbanda devotee of Exu, Lord of the Crossroads: This fellow maintained focus all evening, alternately dancing solo, muttering aimlessly through the terreiro like some lonely hunter, or seated on the Pae de Santo's throne, surveying the attendees.   Still, athough he maintained a glassy-eyed stare, he honored us with a warm cold-handed welcome....

A portrait of an Umbanda devotee of Exu, Lord of the Crossroads: One of several women incorporating Exu's consort, she was clearly Exu's favored companion for the evening, selected each time to approach the Sacred Drums at the Pae de Santo's side, or to mate with him in sacred dance....

A formidable presence, grunting and dominating space, he was a fantastic dancer, facing and commanding the drummers, occasionally cajoling and sermonizing to the assembly. Strolling to the front of the house and twirling back, his staff brushed my chair or leg a half-dozen times- - When he came and sat on the floor next to me, I felt blessed (and very, very aware)....

A portrait of an Umbanda devotee of Exu, Lord of the Crossroads: Three or four of the women at the Umbanda ceremony expressed male Exu spirits, dressed in pants and vests, smoking their thin cheroots, (And, in the case of one of them, chasing after women). This particular devotee fascinated me, her eyes disappearing into a glassy gaze, her head craned at a 45-degree angle the moment the Drums began.... Evoking a perfect caricature of the assertive, cocky male, and crushing her cigar butts in her fingers, she was powerful indeed....

A young Yemenja (Yemaya), goddess of the oceans and overseer of women's health.... The forms herein are suggested by the lines I found in the maps.

A 'Daughter' or Filha of Yemenja, goddess of the oceans and overseer of women's health. Here, one of her devotees, is depicted in the divine moment of receiving her deity.... The forms are suggested by the lines I found in the maps.